The Falls

  Last week, we went to Livingstone to see Victoria Falls or Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the Smoke that Thunders”. We were told that there was “no water”, but still wanted to make the journey anyways. Although, it’s the start of the rainy season here, there really hasn’t been much rain yet, so to the locals in Livingstone, there is just “no water”. After actually viewing the falls, I beg to differ, but I can see how we did miss some of the splendor of the falls. Victoria Falls is the considered the largest waterfall in the world as it is the largest sheet of falling water. Unfortunately, at this time of year, much of the span of the falls was still rock. We did however get to see some of the mist that the falls are famous for. When the water is at its highest, this mist can be seen from 60km away and can in fact block your view of the falls when you are close. I thought the scenery was incredibly impressive and was thoroughly awed by what we did see, even if there was “no water”. I think you can see from the photos that this just wasn’t the case. 

  Before we left, my mom and I had both chosen activities that we wanted to do on the river. I was planning on white water rafting while my mom wanted to go canoeing with the hippos and crocs. Victoria Falls is all about extreme adventures - bungee jumping (more than a 100m drop), a gorge swing, zip line, walking with lions, to name a few. Unfortunately, my mom wasn’t able to do her canoeing as because it was slow season there weren’t enough people booked to go out. I was still able to go rafting. It was a great experience. There are six classes of rapids and we were able to experience several class five rapids. There was one class six rapid that we walked around. The kayakers still went down the rapid and it was absolutely insane to watch them navigate the walls of water and go through huge waves only to pop out on the other side. Class five rapids were chaos, but this class six was something else all together. Our boat flipped twice (once completely upside down). On the last class five rapid that we did, our guide warned us that we might completely flip the boat. Sure enough this happened. When I surfaced after what felt like a very long time, but might have been only 5 seconds, I looked back to see our guide riding the upside down boat down the rapids like he was surfing. He was pumping his fists in the air and yelling. Just crazy! During calm periods in the river, we were able to jump in the river and just float. It was such an awesome experience to float down the Zambezi River. The water was a comfortable temperature and the scenery was beautiful.

  For our final Victoria Falls experience, my mom, Isaac, and I took a boat trip to Livingstone Island. This small island is on the edge of the falls and is never completely covered by water, even in the rainy season. Just beside the island, is a small pool called the Devil’s Pool. Part of the fun when you are on the island is to swim out in the river, climb over some rocks to reach this pool. Once you are in this small, 4 meter deep pool, with tiny fish that nibble at your feet and legs, the only thing separating you from the falls and a long drop is a naturally formed rock wall. Isaac and I watched my brave mother who has a fear of heights, navigate the river and jump into the pool. That was definitely the highlight of her trip.

  One of the things my mom and I found refreshing at Victoria Falls was the complete lack of safety warnings. We were able to enjoy the view of the falls without the annoying warning signs – “Slippery when wet”, “Watch out, big drop!”, etc. If we had been in North America, there would have been any number of signs warning you about common sense safety precautions. It was nice to feel like we could just use our brains and know that it’s best not to get too close to the edge. My mom and I laughed at the safety precautions for the swim out to the Devil’s Pool. There are two ropes spanning the river. The guide explained that if you slip past the first rope, there is still the second rope to stop you. If you are very unlucky and also slip under the second rope, then it’s over the falls you go. We didn’t ask if this had happened before – sometimes ignorance is bliss. I also had a similar, never would happen in North America experience, at the end of the rafting trip. Because I had chosen to do a half day trip, I had to hike out of the gorge. The full day trippers got the cable car out. So after your legs are tired from the hike into the gorge, bracing yourself in the raft, and feeling like jelly from the adrenaline, you have about a 20 minute hike straight up the gorge. It felt like about 1/3 of the Grouse Grind in 35 degree heat with the sun on your back. To help you up the rock face was a ladder built out of branches, many of which were broken. As I was navigating this somewhat treacherous path carrying my helmet, lifejacket, and paddle, I realized that this was definitely a unique experience, possibly one that I could have done without, but still unique. I felt like I had definitely earned my mango smoothie at the end of the day. It’s mango season here – yum!

  While, Isaac didn’t get to experience any extreme adventures at the Falls, he enjoyed himself nonetheless. I have to say that he didn’t seem to be very impressed with the view of Victoria Falls, but the small waterfall into the pool at the motel we were staying at was a huge hit. Also, we made several trips a day to look at the enclosure of bunnies, guinea pigs, and one tortoise that they had at the motel. Isaac would scream with excitement every time he saw the bunnies. So, all in all, it was a great trip for everyone.